Burphu Dhura - Part 1. Dancing with the Devi

Burphu Dhura from the Kalabaland Glacier

A cool September breeze rustled the grass on the slope above the village of Ralam. The villagers made their way up the track to the shrine of Nanda Devi, accompanied by a couple of drummers who beat their little percussion instruments with a steady and stealthily increasing tempo. There were babies and children, grown men and women, young lads and lasses, grinning old women and toothless old men - all swept up in the spirit of the festival. In fact, some locally brewed spirit had also been imbibed prior to the proceedings, to bolster the mood of cheer and goodwill.

The Devi's influence : Dancer in a trance 

Suddenly, an old woman was possessed by the Devi. She began to whirl and sway recklessly to the now heightened drum beats. Infected by the same spirit, a much younger woman who an hour earlier had been suckling an infant, went into full turbo charged mode. Her head spun, her hair wrapped itself round her face and she began to scream indecipherable oaths. She hurled herself into the air, landed on her feet, spat vigorously at the men who now surrounded her. She yelled at them, they yelled back. In the brisk pandemonium that ensued, questions were hurled at the woman. What was the harvest going to be like? Would the winter snows come early? Was the Devi happy with the residents of Ralam? Will my gout stop tormenting me? Will I have any more children? Will these crazy people succeed in climbing Burphu Dhura?

The Dancer an hour earlier

The whirling dervish answered in short bursts of invective which seemed to satisfy the petitioners.

The procession reached the small stone shrine which served as the temple to Nanda Devi, the omnipotent presence in this part of Kumaon. The acting priest accepted the offerings of food and flowers. In one corner of a field, great amounts of food was being cooked for everyone. A stone lifting competition was in progress. The crowd dispersed into small groups, enjoying the festive ambience of the event.

A waxing half moon rose in the skies, the clouds that had been hugging the hillsides began to disperse, and it promised to be a clear and cool night. A flock of sheep took on the appearance of little white maggots from up where we were.

The members, staff and porters of the Burphu Dhura expedition mingled with the crowd. It was a great start to a climbing expedition!

Five months earlier and about two thousand kilometres away in Mumbai, the telephone in the living room rang. My wife picked it up. "It's for you," she said. I hobbled painfully to the corded instrument.

"Hi Aloke," said a cheerful voice. "How are you?"

"Not too good, Satya," I said.

"I want you to join the team I am putting together to attempt Burphu Dhura in the Kalabaland Glacier in Kumaon," said the Lt. Cmdr.

"Satya, my Plantar Fascitis is almost killing me, I can barely walk, I don't think I am in a position to climb anything!"

"Oh, you'll be all right by September," Satya said optimistically.

It turned out that he was right. I began to look forward to seeing a part of the Himalaya I had not been to and as an added bonus the trip would be funded by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation which meant that there would be no stress on my wallet!

I joined the team at Delhi to meet the rest of the members.

Narinder Chouhan was a climbing instructor from Himachal Pradesh whom Satya knew. He lived in the village of Bhagsu above McLeodganj and was tall and strong and very fit.

Narinder Chouhan

Bhupinder Pant (whom we called "Panditji" due to his earnest manner) lived in Almora and for him this meant climbing in his backyard! He was soft spoken and mild and very modest.

Bhupinder Pant

Jinendra Maibam had travelled all the way from Manipur to join the expedition. He was the youngest member of the team and eager to learn from the veterans.

Jinendra Maibam

Divyesh Muni, the ever smiling stalwart of the Himalayan Club in Mumbai, and I (once again the oldest!) completed the team. Lt.Cmdr. Satyabrata Dam would perform the role of Fearless Leader of the expedition.

Divyesh Muni

But even the Fearless Leader could not bypass the requirement of permits to climb in the area we had chosen. Lacking the necessary passport size photographs that the District Magistrate's office required, we went on a hunt for a photographer who could do this in the least possible time in Munsiari, the little town we arrived in on 13 September 1999.

A couple of enquiries led us down old cobbled pathways to the modest house of an old man with one paralysed hand. He brought out a battered old 35mm rangefinder camera loaded with ORWO ISO 125 film, made us sit on a chair in his makeshift studio, turned on two faint flood lamps, and clicked the shutter.

It had begun to rain heavily by this time, so we sat around on the little porch. The photographer came out after some time from his dark room, washed the negatives in some water and hung them up from a clothesline to dry! While we waited, he told us stories from the 1950s when he had gone on trading jaunts to Tibet via Milam in the Dhauliganga. The rain petered out to a light drizzle in a few hours and we walked back to the accommodation of the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam, clutching our precious photographs.

The photo that opened the sacred Inner Line for me!

We spent two days in Munsiari organising the 39 porter loads with the help of Harsingh Sr. and his three friends from the village of Kapkot. Munsiari's claim to fame is of course the spectacular view of all the five peaks of the Panch Chuli group and it did not disappoint in this regard.

The Panch Chuli peaks at dawn from Munsiari

Four days of walking through an interesting mix of terrain, with overnight halts at Paton, Liungrani and Kiltam, brought us to the summer settlement of Ralam at 3600 metres. Our timing was perfect, we arrived on the day of the festival of Nanda Devi and the inhabitants were in a convivial mood.

Fearless Leader Lt.Cmdr. Satyabrata Dam (with appropriate headgear to ward off the impending rain) in serious conversation with Divyesh Muni. Soop Singh wisely does not join in. Between Paton and Liungrani

The rituals ended as dusk fell and everyone retreated to the few stone houses to continue the celebrations indoors with more singing and drinking. I walked a little way beyond the village to sit on a rock and update my journal when a clod of mud the size of a golf ball landed on my lap. I looked up to see a little girl, not more than 6 years old and wearing a thin cotton dress. She disarmed me with an innocent smile and said, "Which village do you come from?"

"Mumbai," I said truthfully. She did not appear impressed in the least.

"What are you doing here?" was her next question.

"Going to Base Camp", I said.

This seemed to satisfy her and she skipped cheerfully away into the gathering darkness.

The Goriganga on the descent from Munsiari towards Lilam

Lunch stop at the Pilti Nala beyond Paton

Camping at Kiltam

This Red Necked Phalarope continued feeding in spite of the camp bustle at Kiltam

Ralam is overlooked by Suitilla (upper right). This picture was taken on our return when the village had already been vacated for the winter.

Next day, we established a Base Camp at the foot of the Shankalpa glacier, barely two and a half hours upstream from Ralam, in a barren and windy spot by a small pool of water. Burphu Dhura, the virgin summit we had come to attempt to climb, was not even visible from here. For that, we had to negotiate another seven kilometres over the moraine of the Shankalpa, turn left where it joined the Yankchar - Kalabaland systems, and finally place an Advance Base Camp on the true right bank of the latter, at the foot of the second tributary glacier which fed the Kalabaland.

It was a spectacular location, providing us with an unrestricted view of Chiring We and Suli Top and if we cared to glance down towards the south, the shapely triangular pinnacle of Suitilla confronted our vision.

Chiring We from Advance Base Camp

For a glacier so spectacular and bristling with so much climbing potential, it had not received many visits. The plum of the area had been plucked in 1979 by Harish Kapadia's second determined visit to the area. Lakhpa Tsering, Kami Tsering, Zerksis Boga and Nayankumar Katira stood on the summit of Chiring We on 10 June 1979. That left Burphu Dhura as the sole virgin in the cluster of summits at the head of the Kalabaland glacier. A team from the Mumbai IIT (Indian Institute of Technology) had sought to climb the mountain from the north, approaching it from the head of the Kalabaland Glacier, but their attempts were thwarted by avalanches.

Sketch Map of area, from "Mountain of Long Life" by Harish Kapadia (Himalayan Journal Vol 36)

For a peak with a fairly modest altitude, Burphu Dhura boasted a complex architecture. The spine of the mountain ran in a roughly north-south axis with a long summit ridge punctuated by a couple of humps. To the west the peak fell away very steeply to the Burphu gad. The East face bristled with unfriendly hanging glaciers and seracs.

Detail of area from 1:150000 Swiss map of Garhwal East 

Since the mountain had already been attempted from the north by other parties without success, we considered it worthwhile exploring the southern approaches for a weakness. Our initial foray led us into a gully which was blocked at the top by an icefall. We extricated ourselves from this dead end by a horrid crossover on a crumbling couloir of shale into the adjacent gully which is where we wanted to be. This involved some steep rock climbing by Narinder who then fixed a rope for us to follow, during the course of which Satya was pummelled by falling rock. Fortunately the only damage was to the GPS instrument that he was carrying. Our intrepid leader was unperturbed : after all, he told us, the ancient mariners had navigated the vast oceans for thousands of years before the first compass was invented, so the loss of this gadget was something we could definitely live with! The next day Divyesh and Narinder discovered that we could actually enter our desired gully right at its foot from a little further west. This gully enabled us to place a camp on the snowfield at the eastern foot of a ridge which rose up to a minor summit which we referred to as Burphu South.

Coming up the gully to Camp 1

With invaluable help from our Kumaoni staff, this Camp 1 (as we referred to it) was stocked and we agreed that this would become the actual hub of our activities for our tryst with Burphu Dhura.

Deciding to lead from the front, our Fearless Leader announced that Jinendra and he would occupy Camp 1 on 28 Sept and co-opted me as his hapless second. I had taken the day off from load ferrying chores on 27th, my birthday, so I had no choice but to put up a brave front.

Very soon Jinendra dropped out of the fray as he developed signs of acute mountain sickness. I trundled on after Satya, who had already trotted on ahead. Perhaps the rest day had done me more harm than good, for I tottered into the camp site a full eight hours after leaving Advance Base and almost 2 hours behind Satya. Fortunately he had the tent already set up and I collapsed thankfully into it.

Camp 1 gave us a grandstand view of Suli Top

We spent the next day in a leisurely fashion, enveloped in cloud for most of the time, preparing a couple of tent platforms for the rest of the team who were expected in the afternoon. We organised the loads and dived into our tent for food and intellectual sustenance : Satya buried his nose in Agatha Christie's Thirteen Problems while I sampled Roald Dahl's twisted short stories.

Satya looks for clues to solve the Burphu Riddle!

Our four Kumaoni staff - Balwant, Duryodhan, Laloo and Soop Singh - arrived first, followed by Narinder, Bhupinder and Divyesh in that order. After a brief halt, Laloo and Soop Singh descended to Advance Base where they would hold the fort with Harsingh Sr. while the rest of us would test our mettle on the flanks of Burphu Dhura.

A stiff breeze sprang up in the afternoon and I seized this opportunity for a delicious siesta. A sumptuous dinner of boiled potatoes, bhel and khichri followed. The wind had cleared the night sky, now awash with stars. Satya and I stood outside, clutching mugs of hot tea and contemplating the heavens. The moon rose from behind Suli Top and the silence touched our souls.

Cadonopsis convolulacea

Lady of Ralam

This goat voices disapproval at our arrival in Ralam!

The Chango Chronicles - 1995 : A Grip on Granite Peak

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive," wrote Robert Louis Stevenson. The Scottish writer had obviously not sampled the delights of road travel in the Himalaya. Stuck in a traffic jam on National Highway 22 below Rekong Peo, I could only hope that we would arrive at Chango the same day. A collision between a lorry loaded with rocks and a bus operated by the Himachal Roadways Transport Corporation had effectively sealed off the narrow road. The respective drivers had gone to Peo to summon the police while all manner of wayfarers emerged from jeeps, buses, lorries, cars and vans to inspect the damage and use the opportunity to urinate into the gorge of the Sutlej, flowing in a sparkling, flat, muddy ribbon far below to our right. Rajesh Thakur, whom we were paying Rs.3800/- to transport Franklyn and me from Shimla to Chango in his blue Maruti van, chattered inconsequentially with his buddy Om Prakash.

Three days earlier our flight from Mumbai had landed into the 41 deg C oven known as Delhi. We transferred to the Old Delhi railway station, baking for a couple of hours before diving into the air- conditioned bliss of the Howrah-Kalka Mail. The narrow gauge train from Kalka to Shimla was a sheer delight, its 103 tunnels spanning 95.5 km providing us with five and a half hours of travel bliss. At Rs.143 per head for First Class seats and no extra charge for our considerable luggage, it was a steal. (Railway addicts will love this BBC documentary http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFHw3L1FXvw on the Kalka - Shimla Hill Railway)

Kalka - Shimla train at Barog station

An hour later, the police turned up, with an official photographer in tow who began to take pictures with his vintage Rolleiflex Twin Lens Reflex camera. The formalities over, the two vehicles involved reversed and went on their individual journeys. We followed in the wake of the lorry, stopped at Yangthang for a late lunch, and reached the haven of the Rest House at Chango at 5 pm to find it locked. Franklyn went into the village to look for Gimmet, the caretaker, and returned instead with Gimmet's wife who opened the doors for us. We moved the seven kit bags, two totes and two rucksacks indoors.

My journal from 7 July 1995 reads - "It feels good to be back in this wonderful village. The air is balmy, the roar of the Spiti river is in the background....the temperature is a pleasant 23 deg C.....a half moon in the sky and the orange glow on the rocky peaks....exquisite." The locals, as always, welcomed us with a smile.

A generous lunch was in store for us at Chokdup Negi's house the next day, comprised of peas, onions, radishes, rice, dal and potatoes supplemented by meat brought all the way from Kaza in Spiti and accompanied by a chutney made from fresh green chillies and mint. Luckily, we had completed all the expedition shopping and the arrangements for the mules before this rich repast, because we could barely stagger back to the Rest House where we collapsed for a refreshing siesta. Chokdup, who was Our Man In Chango was already up in the glacier with the advance team but had instructed his brother to organise our move up into the mountains.

Moonrise from Base Camp

We were a full eight weeks earlier in the season than in 1993 ( for that story see http://taccidental.blogspot.ca/2014/01/the-chango-chronicles-1993-first.html  ) and hoped that this would give us the right weather window to make an attempt on Granite Peak. Jishnu Das and Pyar Singh had arrived more than two weeks earlier with a group of students from St.Stephen's College in Delhi whom they were ostensibly introducing to the joys of Himalayan climbing up in the glacier. This would give the pair a head start as far as acclimatization was concerned and they could therefore, by default, spearhead the first moves on Granite Peak. Harsha (who was trailing a couple of days behind) and I would form the support team. It was a complicated arrangement, and was to affect how the game played out in the end.

I had met Jishnu for the first time a couple of months earlier through a common friend, Mohit Oberoi, at the sandstone climbing pit in the front lawn of the building housing the Indian Mountaineering Foundation in Delhi. A keen rock climber, he was looking for an opportunity to tackle steep rock at altitude. His climbing acquaintance, Pyar Singh, who lived in a village near Uttarkashi in the mountains of Uttarakhand, would also come along. Jishnu was almost two decades younger than me and Pyar Singh could not have been more than thirty, just like Harsha. At almost forty, I was decidedly the old fart of the team! Franklyn was the same age as me but fortunately he harboured no silly ambitions like trying to climb Granite Peak.

Lake Camp had considerably more water than in 1993

Our arrival at Lake Camp coincided with the departure of Neha and Girish, the last of the students, going down to Chango. With the help of Chokdup, who would remain with us for the remainder of the trip, we quickly established an Advance Base at around 18,200 ft. below the towering ramparts of Granite Peak. It was an impressive location. Situated at the centre of what could be termed the Chango Ice Cap, it commanded gorgeous views of Leo Pargial, Ninjeri, the two rocky summits of Pt.6180m (between which hung a steep ice field like a bed sheet hung out to dry), Corner Peak (6370m), and away to the west the sweeping curve of the glacier receded into the horizon. Marco Pallis, who had made the first ascent of Leo Pargial in 1933, had come up from the village of Nako to the west col of the mountain and was so impressed with what he saw that he wrote - "I can imagine nothing better than a season's climbing with a base camp well up on the Chango glacier.There is an abundance of suitable sites and every variety of climb within easy reach." (Himalayan Journal Vol VI page 124). Looking around me, I agreed wholeheartedly.

To the north east, the east face of Ninjeri plunged in an impressive sweep down to the glacier

Advance Base at the foot of Granite Peak (6585 m)

To the south towered Leo Pargial, 6791 metres - the highest in Chango Glacier

Further east, the attractive rocky summits of Pt.6180 metres pierced the sky

Sketch map of area

In just twelve days, I had moved from the enervating heat and humidity of Mumbai at sea level to the crisp cold air (on the first night at Advance Base the temperature plunged to minus 17 deg C) beneath Granite Peak. Up here, it was not the heat, but the altitude which made me move slower. Things improved as the days went by and I hoped I would be able to keep pace with the young lads. None of us had ever done any serious rock climbing above 18,000 feet before, so this was going to be an interesting experiment. As for me, I was considered an average climber even at sea level!

The cliffs rearing up to the peak were steep and raked constantly by rockfall; one day I saw a block the size of a grand piano detach itself from the south face and come hurtling down. Our only hope was to access the south west buttress (which formed one corner) from the right, negotiate a hanging ice field on its flanks, and try to ascend what we instinctively called The Tower, a vertical pillar which appeared to relent in angle after it merged with the upper sections of the cliff. We thought that it might be possible to ascend these sections and gain the crenellated ridge that swept up to the summit. The summit block was separated from the ridge by a significant notch. Almost 3,500 vertical feet of rock armed with hidden surprises and always protected by the unpredictable weather lay between us and the top. Nowhere was there any level ground to pitch tents. The plan was to progressively fix rope as much as we could, then move quickly up these and bivouac at some suitable point, try and reach the top from there and then descend as rapidly as we could. Even in theory, this seemed like a crazy idea; buoyed by the optimism that always accompanies the start of any venture, we sorted out the gear and prepared for our first step on the granite.

Jishnu and Pyar Singh (foreground) reach the base of the climb

Pyar Singh, Jishnu and I hiked up in 20 minutes to the start of the climb. Shod in rock climbing shoes, Jishnu set off on the first pitch with aplomb while Pyar Singh belayed him. I was content to watch the proceedings, take photos and enjoy the sunshine. After a while I dumped my load of extra ropes and equipment and went down the glacier to where we had cached some spare ropes and food two years earlier, near our 1993 Advance Base. I also managed to dig out 3 tins of milk powder and a couple of noodle packets buried for two years in the moraine. The sky had darkened by the time I returned to our present camp at 5 pm. and soft snowflakes began to fall. It snowed for four hours before letting up.

Jishnu leads up the first pitch, trailing a rope to fix. This was a rock climber's dream - perfect rock, blue skies, sunshine.

The next day, 18 July, was my turn at the sharp end of the rope. While Jishnu relaxed at Advance Base, Pyar and I jumared up to the top of the ropes and took it in turn to lead the next couple of pitches. I wrote in my diary that night - "The climbing was ...... delightful, up easy angled rock, the sun came out and it was warm. Except for gasping at altitude, everything seemed under control".

Pyar Singh (left) and Jishnu enjoy the view and the sunshine on a ledge. The tents of Advance Base can be seen inside the circle.

The snowy whiteness of Leo Pargial was in stark contrast to our mountain 

On the third day of climbing, we arrived finally at the base of the Tower. Chokdup now augmented our team and his tremendous strength helped us carry all the gear up the fairly steep ice field to the band of very broken ledges from which soared the Tower. While Chokdup and I lolled in the sun soaking in the gorgeous views, Pyar and Jishnu went to work and by the end of the day they had climbed and fixed rope to within 10 metres of the top of the Tower. The climbing was quite exposed and there were a couple of really tricky sections : I could tell by the way Jishnu remained stationary for a long time, contemplating his next move. Finally, it took Pyar's greater strength, agility and boldness to complete the section. By late afternoon the clouds had moved in and a cold wind was stirring.

Climbing on The Tower : Pyar Singh leads

Glowing with satisfaction, we came down to the tents at 6:30 pm to find that Harsha and Franklyn had arrived from Base and pitched another tent. The next day was declared a rest day by common consensus, the rationale being that now since we had a safety line all the way to the Tower, our next move would involve packing a couple of days' supplies, make the broken ledges our base and then try and move further up the mountain without having to descend to Advance Base. Chokdup took the opportunity to go down to Base to pick up more food and goodies while Jishnu, Harsha and I took a stroll towards Pt.6180 m and the north west face of Granite Peak.

Pt. 6180 m

The upper portion of the north west face of Granite Peak as seen en route to the col that separates it from Pt.6180m.
The actual summit cannot be seen from here. The high point in this photo is the northwest shoulder of the peak

The next day we stood at the bottom of the fixed rope. Chokdup (who had descended to his village to attend to an eye infection) had been replaced by Harsha who would be stepping on to Granite Peak for the first time. Electing to go first, I jumared up the initial section just when snowflakes began to fall. By the time I was halfway up the next pitch, the weather had deteriorated even further, the snow falling thick and fast, soon maturing into a full blown storm. We retreated back into the tents.

Two days later as we moved up again, while I was climbing up what I called The Grey Slabs, the expedition fell apart. Pyar Singh's reluctance to continue with the climb had become increasingly apparent. He voiced his fears about the weather and about our rather less than ideal speed. He said that we did not have much of a chance of reaching the top under the circumstances and suggested we call off the climb. His concerns were of course justified. We were heavily laden and were forced to move slowly, we were no match for his level of fitness and skill, we were a long way from the summit and there could be any number of serious obstacles further up our route. Jishnu opined that if Pyar was pulling out, then he would do the same. With Harsha still trying to acclimatize to the altitude, I was left with no choice. The dull grey weather matched my mood.

Over the next couple of days we helped Jishnu and Pyar move all their stuff down to the Lake Camp, lured by the prospect of eating the eggs that were still available there. Franklyn stayed back at Base, nursing a deep gash below his right thumb, sustained when he fell on the moraine. The 26th of July was the clearest day since we had fixed rope on The Tower and the sense of regret was partly alleviated by the smell of frying eggs and tea, wafting on the decidedly more oxygenated air as we sat on the turf next to the water. I wrote a letter to my wife and handed it over to Jishnu to post when he got to Delhi. To complete our diet, Chokdup suddenly appeared from below, bearing  a gift of fresh apricots from the village. His eyes were much better and he accompanied Harsha and me back to the Base Camp late in the evening. Even though reduced in numbers, we were not yet ready to throw in the towel. We moved back up the glacier once again.

A howling wind greeted us at the base of Granite Peak and we crawled into the shelter of the big North Face VE25 tent that we had left standing. An hour later it had subsided enough for us to venture out and pitch Jishnu's little Tadpole tent which he had been kind enough to leave behind for our use. For the next 5 days Granite Peak remained shrouded in mist and cloud, appearing totally hostile. To make matters worse, I caught a bad cold and nursed an irritating sore throat. Snow fell intermittently. To kill time, we walked around on the glacier all the way to the Kuru Tokpo Gap below the west col of Leo Pargial and climbed a steep snow gully on Pt. 6180 m to see if it could reasonably lead to the big hanging ice field that separated its two prominent summits. The gully branched to the right and led to a rather enjoyable traverse to the right, all the way to the top of a waterfall which drained the ice field. We filed this away in our memory as we had a backup plan to attempt to climb this attractive mountain if we didn't go back to Granite Peak.

The Ninjeri Gap and the gully on Pt. 6180m

Discovering that Jishnu had somehow mistakenly taken all our ice screws and some of the rock hardware down to Chango, we dispatched Chokdup in the hope of intercepting him before he left the village for Delhi. Ever obliging, Chokdup disappeared into the cauldron of cloud that constantly swept up the valley. Harsha and I went up the first two sections of fixed rope on Granite Peak, straightening it out and reinforcing the anchors on which our lives would depend. After an absorbing day on the rocks we returned to enjoy the tea that Franklyn had waiting for us.

Two days later, Chokdup returned, completing the over eight thousand feet ascent from Chango to Advance Base in one single push! He was absolutely exhausted by the time he staggered into camp. If it had been any of us, we would probably have died from such a superhuman effort. He had the ice screws with him. We had no time to lose, with only 5 days left before we had to start withdrawing from the glacier. Our vacation was coming to an end, we had families and jobs to go back to.

On the first day of August, Chokdup, Harsha and I set off for a last ditch attempt to climb Granite Peak. We were barely ten minutes from the tents when Chokdup began to vomit violently. His retching spewed out the dinner of the night before and he reeled with nausea. Perhaps he had come back up too quickly and needed to rest a day. We quickly redistributed our loads, told him to stay back and continued. A thundercloud, accompanied by flashes of lightning, added drama to our efforts as we hauled ourselves up the ropes. At a little after 5 pm we decided to bivouac, just below the ice field. The MSR stove behaved impeccably even as it began to snow, purring away steadily and kept us supplied with soup and noodles. The snow continued steadily halfway into the night. Tucked away in our bivouac sacks and clipped into an anchor, we spent a fairly comfortable night.

I woke up to an indifferent dawn.



The view from our first bivouac

In the morning we could look down at Advance Base. We saw two tiny figures moving around the tents. We hollered and waved our hands and made signs that we were going to move upwards. One of the figures seemed to have seen us and waved his hands in return. I rappelled down two rope lengths to retrieve some gear that we had left on one of the ledges and was back at our bivouac spot to relish a breakfast of Tarla Dalal's moong dal halwa which Harsha had been preparing. Thus fortified, we packed up and were preparing to get on with the business of moving on when the ropes below us tightened and a grinning Chokdup appeared over the lip of the cliff! We let out whoops of joy, thinking that reinforcements had arrived. Our cheer turned to despair when we saw that he was carrying an empty sack.

Franklyn, seeing me going down the ropes earlier, had interpreted it as a sign that we were coming down and had asked Chokdup to go up and help us down with our loads. The black humour of the situation was further exacerbated when it began to snow in earnest. Chokdup helped us move up the ice slope to another spot to spend the night while he quickly descended into the clouds. We spent a fairly miserable day at this spot, in and out of the mist. The night was no better, the ledge on which I was perched was curved like a boat and too small for me.

Our second bivouac 

A piton proved useful as a spout

When the morning came and the weather continued in the same vein, we knew we were beaten. But being the cussed souls that we are, we were not going to give up without a token fight.

"How about trying to push Pyar Singh's high point just another rope length?" I proposed to Harsha. He looked at me dubiously. Even though he knew it was going to be futile, he was sporting enough to say,"Okay, you give it a shot, I shall belay you".

Leaving everything except a rope and some basic climbing gear, we hauled ourselves up the Broken Ledges and proceeded to the base of The Tower. As we turned the corner, a wicked wind swept across the mountain and whipped the snow around our faces. With gloved hands that were numb with the cold, I climbed the Tower awkwardly in my double plastic boots. The rock was wet and slippery. Visibility kept changing, flurries of snow would blind me temporarily as I scrabbled for a toehold. I thanked God that I was clipped into the fixed rope, and I wondered how hard it would have been for us to use our ascending devices with our loaded rucksacks on our backs. I was panting with the effort as I hauled myself up another few feet to the top of the first fixed rope on the Tower.

My futile attempt to go beyond Pyar Singh's high point.

I certainly felt out of my comfort zone. In fact, if I somehow managed to progress beyond Pyar Singh's high point - which was highly unlikely - I would be putting us firmly in the disaster zone. Being married with a five year old son positively helps when taking critical decisions in the mountains. Adopting as my guiding principle the sound motto - "He who fights and runs away lives to fight another day!" - I decided to call it a day and rappelled off the Tower even as the storm increased in intensity. By the time we descended to our last bivouac spot our hands were numb.

Packing everything up and shoving the excess gear into the empty rucksack that Chokdup had brought up, we retreated down the ice to the ledge where we had spent the first night. We left the extra sack clipped into one of the piton anchors and began the harrowing abseils down to the glacier. It was dark by the time my feet touched down on reasonably level ground and we staggered the short distance back to the tents. I slipped a couple of times in the fresh snow with the fatigue. "I was tired, thirsty, frozen cold and damp", I was to write later in my diary. Granite Peak had shrugged us off as if we were some pesky little insects.

Our attempt on Granite Peak. This photo, taken 3 years later from the summit of Corner Peak, gave us an idea of  how far we were from the top!

In the next couple of days we stripped the mountain of all the fixed rope except the ones on the Tower. We left only a few pitons and some slings which might bear mute witness to our passage many years hence. Chokdup's brother Gimtey and his friend brought the mules up to Base Camp and helped us move down to Chango.

Gimtey (left) and his friend don all the hardware as we prepare to leave Base Camp

At Lake Camp we revelled in the smell of grass and the colour of the myriad wildflowers that were sprouting from unexpected crevices and cracks around the boulders that dotted the landscape. A cold rain squall did not dampen our spirits as we raced down to Chokdup's house for a hot and welcome meal.

Two days later we boarded the Shelkar - Chango - Rampur bus, to once more travel hopefully! However, our travails were not yet over. The bus went on a diversion to the village of Leo down a frightening stretch of dirt road,  packed passengers in like sardines into and out of Peo, and a stout Kinnauri lady with her little baby gleefully sat down on my lap. I would have gladly offered her my seat and stood up but she would have none of it. She insisted that we could both complete the journey sitting down - by which she meant that she would be sitting on me! Franklyn and Harsha, seated on the bench seat behind me, guffawed with laughter. Fortunately, a month of going up and down on the glacier had strengthened my thighs and I survived.

All afternoon the rain had been pelting down and it was announced at Jeori that the road ahead was closed due to a landslide. We were stuck.

However, there is always a silver lining to any situation. We hired two Maruti vans for Rs. 200 each and zipped up the 17 km to Sarahan, home to the famous Bhimakali temple, and checked into the Hotel Shrikhand to spend the night. Here we proceeded to drown our sorrows in a case of beer which gave us a good night's sleep, leaving us fresh the next day to admire the flamboyant plumage of the world's first captive bred Western Horned Tragopan in the pheasantry above the village.

Illustration by Allan Sutherland

With never a dull moment during the entire trip, I had no doubt that I would return to travel up National Highway 22 to Chango again!

View from the Broken Ledges

Traverse at Lake Camp : the challenge was not to fall into the water!

Franklyn (left), Jishnu and Harsha en route to Advance Base